The basic design that Profile uses all of our hubs has changed very little for roughly the past 15 years. While we've updated almost every component of the hub in one way or another, and introduced new hubshells, axle styles, and driver materials, the basic layout of the hub is the same. A BMX cassette hub from 2001 will happily accept a 2010 rear cassette axle or driver. Our MTB hubs use the same style of 4 pawl driver, the same oversized, sealed bearings, and similar aluminum center axles, so overhauling a Profile MTB hub is very similar to overhaulings our BMX hubs.

A few words about hub shims. Shims are very thin (.005") (that's five thousandths of an inch) slices of metal that were sometimes placed behind the bearings next to the bearing seats on the aluminum center axles. Some years, we made the axles a bit shorter and then used shims to make up the difference. For roughly the past two years, we've been making the axles a bit longer, so no shims are needed in most cases. If your hub is not loose, and you take your hub apart, and don't find any shims, you don't need shims. If your hub is loose, shims may make it better, or they might not make any difference.

The main cause of loose hubs is not axles that were too short, it's repeated overtightening by the end user. Over time, the cone spacers and/or the aluminum center axle are crushed, which causes the looseness to develop. Another frequent cause of looseness is worn-out bearings. If your hub is loose, you should contact us as soon as you notice it, and we can discuss repair options with you. Riding around for extended periods of time on a loose hub is only going to make it more expensive to repair.

Mini Front Hubs (click for rear cassette hub page)

Of course, It's preferred that you use an arbor press or a bearing press to install new bearings in your hubs, but since we recognize that not everyone has access to those, we provide these instructions to make things easier for you. We are happy to overhaul your hubs here at Profile for a small fee. Please contact us for details.

Overhauling your hubs is not something that needs to be done more than once or twice a year, unless you ride 3 or 4 hours a day, everyday. Then you might need to do it 3 or 4 times a year, but my point is that you shouldn't take your hubs apart just for the sake of taking your hub apart.

Overhauling Profile Mini Front Hubs is easier than you might think it is. You just need new bearings, two 8mm allen keys (but you can make do with one), your bike's forks, and a rag. Of course, you should inspect all of the hub's parts before you begin to reassemble it, to ensure that the hub will perform as close to new as possible when you're done. Inspect the hub flanges for cracks, and make sure that the aluminum center axle doesn't appear bent, bashed, worn, stripped, or cracked.

click to enlarge

Mini Front Hub parts:

• a. 3/8"(10mm) axle bolts (2)
• b. Cone Spacers (2)
• c. Hub Bearings (mfg #6903) (2)
• d. Aluminum Center Axle (1)
• e. Hub Shell (1)

Taking Profile Mini Front Hubs hubs apart is simple. Remove the wheel from the fork, and back one of the bolts out until it's 2/3's of the way out of the hub.
Then hit the bolt with a rubber mallet, and the bearing should pop out the opposite side.
Remove the bolt, cone spacer, and bearing.
Thread the bolt back into the side of the axle opposite the bearing, and use the mallet to remove the bearing that's still in the hubshell.
Once you have the hub completely apart, clean the bearing seats, axle, bearings (externally only, if you're keeping the old ones,) and inspect all components for damage. If you see any cracks, crushing, distortion, or deformation then you should replace that part. Inspect your bearings for side to side play. Then, slide your bearing (c)onto the axle (d). If you are installing shims, they should go on the axle, followed by the bearings. After the bearing, slide on a cone spacer (b), and tighten the axle bolt (a) all the way down, finger tight is fine.
Insert the axle assembly through the hubshell, and again, insert the shim (if needed), the bearing, the cone spacer, and use the axle bolt to hold it all together, leaving the bolt sticking far enough out that you can put the hub into the dropout on your fork as shown. The bearings should not slide into the hubshell at this point- if they do, or if you can slide them in and out of the hubshell with your bare hands, there is an issue with your hubshell. Call us and discuss it.
You will ideally have 2 8mm allen wrenches for this step.Snug up the bolt that's in the fork, and use the bolt on the far side to hold the axle steady. Make sure that the bearings and conespacers are lined up square to the hub. As you tighten the bolt that's in the fork, the bearings should be drawn into the hub. It shouldn't take a great deal of force or pressure.
You will feel a definite stop when the bearings are completely inserted. The edges of the conespacers should also be more or less flush with the curve of the hubshell as well. Loosen the axle bolts and place the wheel normally in the fork.
Tighten the bolts as you normally would, and check the wheel for side to side play and smoothness. If you have side to side play, then you should start over, paying special attention to the inspection stage. If you still can't get rid of the side play, contact us, and we'll get it fixed. If you feel roughness, but no side to side play, remove the wheel from the fork, and snug both bolts to the hub. They should be maybe a half a turn past finger tight. Hit one of the bolts with your mallet sharply, but not like you're trying to ring the bell at the county fair. One or two taps should completley seat the bearings if they weren't seated before. Anything more than that, start the process over.

If you are unable to resolve an issue with your hub, we do perform repairs here for a nominal fee. Please don't hesitate to contact us if you run into difficulties. Riding a poorly performing hub is never a good idea.

The principals of overhauling all Profile Front Hubs are basically the same, with axle dimension and cone spacers being the primary difference.

(click for rear cassette hub page)

DISCLAIMER: These instructions are provided as a service. The best way to install sealed bearings is always a bearing or arbor press. The methods discussed here are alternatives for the home bike mechanics with home bicycle tools. If you are not careful, you will damage your hubs and bearings. Profile cannot be held responsible for any damage caused by attempts at repair attempted by anyone other than employees of Profile racing.

If you are unsure of your abilities, take your bike to a local bike shop, or contact us at Profile. We are happy to overhaul your hubs for you here. Contact Shane at Profile at 727.391.7370 for details.